Another thing that runs the country is the CFR, the national train system, which I have found to be a really convenient and popular form of public transportation. It would seem that getting on a train would be a simple enough procedure that corruption couldn't possibly factor in on it, but, of course, this is Romania!!
I just learned about the Godfather. The Godfather is known as a conductor in most countries. He comes from compartment to compartment checking tickets and punching cards. I always buy a ticket, since they're so cheap anyways (and it never occurred to me NOT to buy one [though I have ridden busses sans ticket, lest I seem obnoxiously righteous]).
However, apparently, it is very common in Romania for people simply to get on the train without a ticket, and then give the Godfather a 5 or 10 lei bribe rather than handing over a ticket. I saw this once or twice, particularly on my way to Lunca Ilvei, since we stop at many smallish villages and people tend to get on for just one stop and they're often little old ladies. I thought the cash they were handing over was a legitimate way to buy a ticket for just one stop (Silly Nuge!!). However, all over the country, people will get on the train, hoping to make it one stop without getting checked, and if they do, simply hand over a small bribe.
The Romanian government has caught wind of this arrangement, and conductors are obligated to record how much money they bring onto the train and then how much they take off the train. However, like squirrels, they hide their stash in some compartment and come back for it later. I have heard of a story (second hand) of a guy who was once instructed to stand up, and the conductor/Godfather reaches underneath the seat and pulls out a wad of cash.
Furthermore, once you have bribed one Godfather, he will tell the new Godfather who comes on duty to let you go.
I would almost like to try this out once, but I'm not certain that I could pull it off convincingly. I think wearing homespun wool and smelling like tuica or being a 50+ babushka might increase the chances of the Godfather letting you stay on the train. Hmmm...
2 comments:
I wondered why they would have these intense double checking of tickets on the IC with several ticket checkers all doing it at once...perhaps this is the reason? They yelled something about official checking of tickets, must present blah blah...:)
and yes, i think it has something to do with tuica and wool socks.
My neighbour in Romania was a ticket collector, and I did hear some tales from him. Yes, they are forced to go around in groups because, assemble half a dozen Romanians and there is sure to be a jobsworth who will turn the others in. (Or is it because more than two of them together couldn't organise a picnic together?) Over here, we'd say "couldn't organise a piss-up in a brewery", however any small or large group of Romanians could do that!
I also heard of trains where a posse of ticket inspectors go on, and the train emptied at the next station, people fleeing across the fields. Of course I was told that "they were all gypsies" because, as any Romanian knows, it is the gypsies that commit the crimes. (Because all the Romanian criminals are busy at work in Italy?)
I never needed a ticket when my friend was on duty. One time I even got to ride with the train driver as a treat.
Meanwhile a number of lines were closed by CFR (Sibiu-Agita is one) because "they took no money". Well, they did, however CFR didn't get any of it!
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